Ive built my very own custom lily58 keymap, forked from the main QMK GitHub repository. There are several ready-made consumer options out there like the ZSA Moonlander and Dygma Raise but both are relatively pricey for a keyboard, selling for over $350. The Pro version of the Lily58 supports Kailh Choc and MX hot-swap sockets. The RGB version has dedicated build guide. The QMK Toolbox can be used to write non-customized keymaps via a GUI, avoiding the need to configure a local QMK environment. Build-Guide for the Lily58L Split-Keyboard pcb. Refer to Soldering the controller if you need further guidance. This guide suits both version V1 and V2 of the standard (non-RGB) Sofle Keyboard. Here's what it looks like about a week in: It's only been a week and I'm still slowly getting the hang of things. Lily58 Pro Build Guide by Keyhive. But if you really need underglow it is be possible to connect an RGB LED strip since there are 3 pads (VCC, GND and data) on the board. Refer to Soldering diodes if you need further guidance. And, as I type this post out with the new keyboard, that was some solid advice! Theoretically I think these could be installed on the under side for a lower profile. Recommended Soldering Tools on Keeb.io. From this part on things will get easier: You are done! Make sure they are flush with PCB. Begin by placing one on each of the corners of the PCB to give you some stability. Use a piece of tape to fix them and apply solder from the bottom side. After mounting the plate, push the switches again to make sure that installation is complete. The following is needed to build the keyboard. Its not a polished product. On each PCB half 2x 12mm length. keycapsss.com/keyboard-parts/pcbs/71/lily58l-split-keyboard-pcb?utm_campaign=about&utm_source=github&utm_medium=social, keycapsss.com/keyboard-parts/pcbs/71/lily58l-split-keyboard-pcb?utm_campaign=About&utm_source=Github&utm_medium=Social, 2 solid panels, 2 with holes for switches. I didn't want to spend that much money only to then find myself not being able to adjust to the keyboard and the typing experience. If not, please follow the instructions in the documentation. This article is Part 3 in a 6-Part Series.. Part 1 -In search of the best custom keyboard layout Part 2 -Let me introduce you SofleKeyboard - a split keyboard based on Lily58 and Crkbd Part 3 -SofleKeyboard build log/guide; Part 4 -Sofle Keyboard evolution: slow and not really steady Part 5 -Another year of Sofle keyboard Part 6 -Sta AKA Sofle Unsplit - a monoblock split keyboard Keyboard Soldering and Desoldering for Beginners by Blacksimon. In addition, please be careful, as the case will be scratched if it hits or rubs a hard thing after assembly. (It's easier to work the diodes if you cautiously open the container onto a small plate.). Hotswap Sockets: Choc low profile, MX. After that, holding gently the diode down with the tweezers solder the corresponding diode leg. Featuring Microcontroller Hotswap Sockets, USB-C Pro Micro, Kailh Switch Hotswap Sockets, Acrylic Plates,. This is because the TRRS cable does carry power in addition to data, so as a precaution avoid messing around with them while live. And to finish with the soldering part you must solder the JACK sockets and the RESET buttons to the PCB. Suggested approach is to build the firmware yourself. 2, This can be changed, look for setting handednesss in QMK documentation. How to Make a Corne Split Keyboard by The main half acts as a master that forwards events produced from its sibling to the computer. Shay Kalyan, The Worst Hobby on the Internet - Mechanical Keyboards (Beginners Guide). At this point, you must check if all key keys work properly by connecting the keyboard to the computer. A. Moving into full time work five years ago, I quickly realized the discomfort of using traditional keyboards and found the work-provided Microsoft Sculpt Ergonomic Keyboard did a great job to relieve me of that. Once you verify that, you can set up bluetooth profiles for the keyboard. Make sure they are flush with PCB and match the orientation shown on the silkscreen. In order to have the OLED Screens enabled, before compiling/flashing the controllers, dont forget to add the code line in the rules.mk file in your Lilys keymap folder: (If you dont plan to hotswap the microcontroller skip to 6th step.). Bridge 4 jumpers on the TOP SIDE of the PCB by soldering them 2 by 2 vertically on both PCBs, if you plan to use OLED Screens. The other advantage is that the Lily58 mounts the TRRS jack on the top, so it sits noticeably lower then than the Iris, which is good for ergonomics. Lily58 Pro - ERGONOMIC SPLIT KEYBOARD SOLDERING BUILD GUIDE (beginner friendly). Be gentle with micro USB ports on your microcontrollers. Hope you like them! The interesting part will come in later post that Ill write in which I will show some of the problems that Ive faced and solutions that Ive applied. Base Plate: No Plates, Black 1.5mm FR4, White 3mm Acrylic, Black Matte 3mm Acrylic, Clear 3mm Acrylic, Frosted 3mm Acrylic, Smoked 3mm Acrylic, Aluminum . With the QMK Toolbox route, the setup was as simple as: The microcontrollers should both be good to go! When Detecting USB port, reset your controller now is displayed, press the reset button on the keyboard to start writing. As I mentioned, this was going to be my first real foray into a hardware project, and that too making a keyboard where I needed to solder! PCB Color: Black, White. I think that where I can contribute the most is by sharing my failures, and that is covered in the next article. Flash the controller (pro micro, Elite C, nice!nano, etc) with the firmware. If you have any problems, please feel free to send a message to the "#Lily58" channel on Discord ("Self-Made Keyboards in Japan" (https://discordapp.com/invite/NM7XtDW)) or Twitter: @F_YUUCHI. Are you sure you want to create this branch? The per key lighting is painful and slow. Click here for the Corne Cherry v2 build guide. A couple of additional callouts, though: There are several community contributed keymaps within the Lily58/keymaps folder in the QMK repo, but I found that there really isn't any one opinionated set of keymaps that folks typically stick to. Thank you for your hard work. , As an advice, to build your firmware use a virtualized environment because QMK depends on a bunch of system libraries with specific versions that may not match your system. The traditional LED header is available, and can be used alone, or theoretically fed back in to one of the other headers if so desired. They are easy to break. All the process could be separated into 3 sections: 1) soldering electronic parts 2) Lubing the switches 3) putting all together. Please mind that the layout has slight modifications, mainly the pinkie stagger is less aggresive than for non-RGB Sofle V2. Its not a polished product. Keep in mind that this is a prototype of a DIY keyboard. The diodes are mounted on the back side of the board. Lily58 Pro was created by @kata0510. I have added a single LED to the top surface to act as a layer indicator, this is enabled by bridging 2-3 on J6(indicator bypass). Now you have completed the build process, congrats comrade! You should be familiar with QMK and be able to make it work on your local environment. A tag already exists with the provided branch name. Button and TRRS sockets belong to the top. But shows the same layout and net labels on the bottom. Feel free to get creative and experiment with keymaps that match your preferences; consider changing to the JIS layout or adding a key to switch between English and Kana, for example. Check the direction of the diode in question. Use as low a temperature as you can manage, place the board flat on a table, and drop an led in. This build guide is based on a copy of the main build guide. Create a solder bridge from the led to the board, not spending too much time with the iron on the led (few seconds) otherwise it will burn out. Soldering diodes is relatively straightforward. Depending on the color and release date, some parts may differ, but there is no difference in operation. This commit does not belong to any branch on this repository, and may belong to a fork outside of the repository. kata0510 fix Lily58 Pro BuildGuide. After removing the key switch, make sure that the pins aren't bent, and then push it in again and install it. Lily58 KB License. Disabling it in the firmware will fix this behavior. Its clean side should be at the top, visible. PCBs are reversible on kriscables.com This means you can choose any of them for left/right when starting the build, SMD only (through hole diodes are not supported), You can alternatively: Bridge 2x the GND + RST pins on pro micro or define in QMK keymap, Optional, but strongly recommended to have them to hotswap easily any time, Needed for controllers hotswap. If you wish to use per key lighting, you also need to short pins 1-2 of 5. You can (and i strongly suggest) to flash the controllers before soldering them, excluding the hard work to desolder it in case you brick it while attempting to flash in some wrong way. Either the male PIN headers you most likely got with the board from the supplier could be used to solder it directly to the board. Re-solder the problem socket, or reflow and add solder if the joint is weak. Work out what leds you wish to have, I have endeavoured to provide plenty of flexibility, and all led configurations are available using the headers available. 13D) Insert the keycaps and connect the TRRS into both halves and after that USB cable to the left half. Lily58 Pro Build Guide by kriscables.Start with the one half of the Lily58 Pro PCB and only after completing all the steps below proceed to the another half. A good alternative would be to use an existing keyboard with leds to inject the signal and power through the LED header. If you inserted the switches then check if the switch legs are properly inserted into the socket and arent bend (very common issue). First of all, you need to solder SMD diodes alongside each switch socket, on my Lily58 PCB Put at least 4 adhesive rubber feet in the corners so the keyboard is not moving when you type. Mark the surface with masking tape to make it easy to keep track of the back and front of each board. This has been corrected in the v2.1 boards, and hopefully hasnt caught too many people out. the TRRS cable to connect the two halves while the microcontroller is also plugged in and powered. Always disconnect the USB cable first. The TRRS jack and the reset switch are mounted on the front side (the one with the sticker on the mark). Q. Mount with the wider side (labeled "" here) outwards. keyboard-only usage. 4 lines (3 sloc) 152 Bytes. Lily58 or Kyria) you want to create a configuration for. Sold the OLED panel on top of each Arduino using long rigid copper cable soldering to the PCB headers. Parts Required Optional Firmware preparation If you build the firmware yourself, it will take some time to set up the environment, so it's best to start at the beginning. - ZSA Moonlander How to build your FIRST. It can be found on QMK repo. If you are interested in wireless keyboards, I'm designing more fully wireless keyboards besides just a pro micro replacement. And corresponding sockets (if used) on the front side of the board. Many Git commands accept both tag and branch names, so creating this branch may cause unexpected behavior. 2 top plates, 2 bottom plates for a sandwich-case build. Additionally, if there isn't enough solder, please re-solder. The default layout for the SofleRGB is in the qmk repo, and demonstrates some LED functions. Moving the iron back and forth from the pin can help to flow the solder under the LED. If the part of the string stops working, resolder the last working one, and the first to fail, then if needed replace them. If you do not, you will experience "jittery" keystrokes as if some keys were lost while in transit. A build log / reference post covering my first stab at a hardware project: building a split ergonomic keyboard running the QMK firmware. The end with the thin line is Cathode (-) and it should go in the direction of the arrow symbol on the PCB. Attach four 10mm round spacers to the holes near ProMicro. For doing that just follow the QMK Vagrant page. If it is wrong, remove it and re-solder it. Many highlights in this guide contain useful links, hover with the mouse over them and click. I was not able to get 7mm, but 6mm worked well for me with MX switches. You can find links for the most of the components in the sourcing parts section. If you've socketed the controller, also consider socketing the OLEDs else the controller will be trapped underneath it. Dismiss, Compile ZMK Firmware + Flash Nice!Nano Controller. Put at least 4 adhesive rubber feet in the corners so the keyboard is not moving when you type. You'll want a PCB kit (hotswap or through hole) and Plate Kit (FR4 plates) for a full kit The plates are made of PCB material. nice!nano) and shield (e.g. Im not going to be fully specific on how to build it as the are fully detailed guides like https://imgur.com/gallery/eM0zWS9, but Ill explain it quickly. DROP + INVYR HOLY PANDA MECHANICAL SWITCHES, https://github.com/kata0510/Lily58/blob/master/Pro/Doc/buildguide_en.md, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qr3nYR15wxU, https://dp12.github.io/posts/adventures-with-the-lily58-part-1/. On this guide i started with the left half. Note the outlined sets of holes in PCB, and insert the ProMicro into the outlined holes. Build as indicated by the orientation shown . Please be careful, as the connections are different for the right and left boards. I recently finished a build of a Lily58 Pro kit purchased from boardsource. This is how the right half should look from the top. Third, out there there are prebuilt keyboards or parts to build your own. Many Git commands accept both tag and branch names, so creating this branch may cause unexpected behavior. Dont proceed to another half until youll fix it on this PCB, this way youll avoid repeating same mistake on the second half. 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